Basement waterproofing paints would be ideal only if they did what they advertised to do – right? Getting the product to penetrate into the surface that you are attempting to waterproof is your first hurdle and actually having a concrete sealant that doesn’t degrade over time is another.
Permaflex not only easily penetrates deeply into porous concrete block, concrete walls & floors but it actually stays forever flexible inside (and outside) of the surface that was penetrated. What good would a basement waterproofing paint be if it just sat on the surface and became brittle in the future? Common sense says that you’ll be wasting your time (and money) purchasing and applying a product like that . . . but that is exactly how many of the products on the market work.
Not only does Permaflex penetrate deeply and never becomes brittle with age, it has “elongation memory” – meaning that once the flexible coating stretches or moves, it will return to it’s original cured shape.
Acting like mini-gaskets within the concrete, the embedded Permaflex will flex and expand tightly against the sides of each capillary allowing the coating to remain in place and not “blow-off” the surface (as is the case with more rigid products).
Preparation is Crucial for Success
Concrete is porous like a “big hard sponge” and . . . if it’s profile is open with proper preparation, it will absorb liquids (water/coatings). Many concrete basement slabs will have been either troweled hard or sealed with something and it will not be ideal (as is) to coat. Pour some water on your floor . . . do you see the water easily absorb right in?
Concrete grinding THEN an acid etch/neutralization would be a great way to properly open-up the surface. Another great way to prep for concrete sealants would be using a shot-blast machine or sandblasting the surface to make it porous. Any previously applied coating needs to be removed to have Permaflex work like it is designed to do.
Poured basement walls (anything “untooled”) and cinder block walls are porous enough without any grinding and acid etching. You just need to be sure to remove any previously applied coating if you want the most effective outcome with the Sani-Tred basement waterproofing system.
Contractors in the industry don’t really like the term “paint” to describe what we apply. Yes, it’s similar to painting in the fact that it is either rolled or sprayed on a surface, but from there the similarities end. The term “Coating” is what most contractors are comfortable with :) You definitely do not want to put a typical paint on anything in an attempt to waterproof it . . . the results will be far from ideal.